Do You Need Burlap on Balled Trees When Planting
Nursery stock is often sold balled and burlapped because it keeps the root system protected and hydrated during transport. However, once the tree sits in your planting hole, that fabric becomes a barrier. Most professionals agree that removing at least the top half of the burlap helps the tree establish faster. It's a trade-off between keeping the soil ball together and giving the roots a clear path to expand into your native soil.
Quick facts
| Material | Decomposition Speed | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|
| Natural Burlap | Moderate | Remove top half |
| Synthetic Burlap | None | Remove completely |
| Wire Basket | N/A | Cut top two rings |
What is the primary purpose of using burlap in the transport and transplanting of nursery stock?
Burlap serves as a structural containment vessel, holding the root ball together during the transition from field to landscape. It protects the delicate feeder roots from mechanical shock and desiccation, which is essential for trees weighing upwards of 500 pounds that would otherwise crumble during the loading process.
Should natural or synthetic burlap be removed from the root ball before backfilling?
You should remove as much burlap as possible, especially the top portion, regardless of the material. Many people assume that natural burlap is a fertilizer or a soil amendment that helps the tree, but it actually acts as a physical barrier that can wick moisture away from the root ball. By removing the top third to half of the burlap, you allow for better water infiltration and make sure that the roots can expand outward into the surrounding native soil without being trapped by layers of rot-resistant treated fabric.
How does leaving intact burlap affect the long-term root development and structural stability of a tree?
Intact burlap often forces roots to grow in a circular pattern, which eventually leads to a loss of structural stability and long-term decline.
- Circular roots: These circling patterns prevent the tree from anchoring itself properly in the soil, making it susceptible to windthrow.
- Moisture wicking: The fabric can draw water out of the root ball, causing the interior soil to dry out faster than the surrounding ground.
- Oxygen levels: Dense, heavy burlap restricts gas exchange, creating an anaerobic environment that suppresses the growth of beneficial mycorrhizal fungi.
- Root flare: Buried burlap often hides the true root flare, leading to deep planting and subsequent trunk decay.
What are the risks associated with improper removal of wire baskets and burlap wrappings?
No, leaving these materials in place creates significant hazards. Leaving a wire basket intact can impede lateral root growth for 10 to 20 years, while failing to remove the burlap can lead to root constriction and eventual tree failure as the trunk expands against the binding materials.
Does the decomposition rate of treated burlap significantly hinder the establishment of new root systems?
Treated burlap often persists in the soil for years, creating a physical barrier that delays the expansion of the root system into the native backfill.
| Material Type | Estimated Persistence | Impact on Root Growth |
|---|---|---|
| Untreated Burlap | 6–12 months | Minimal |
| Treated Burlap | 2–5 years | Moderate restriction |
| Synthetic Burlap | Indefinite | High restriction |
| Plastic Twine | Permanent | Severe girdling |
Use these timeframes to determine how much material you must strip away; if the material is expected to last over two years, remove it entirely to prevent long-term root strangulation.
What specific techniques should be used to safely remove burlap without damaging the integrity of the soil ball?
To safely remove the burlap, gently fold the fabric down from the top of the root ball once the tree is positioned in the planting hole. Use a sharp utility knife to slice the fabric away in sections, taking care not to disturb the soil ball itself. If the root ball feels loose or unstable, leave the bottom portion of the burlap intact to support the weight while you backfill the hole halfway.
A common example involves using a pair of heavy-duty shears to clip the wire basket after the burlap is pulled back, ensuring the metal does not interfere with future root expansion. One nuance to consider is that if the root ball is extremely sandy or dry, you should keep the burlap in place until the hole is partially filled with soil to prevent the entire mass from collapsing during the planting process.
Are there specific soil conditions where burlap decomposition is inhibited, necessitating complete removal?
Burlap decomposition is significantly inhibited in heavy clay soils or waterlogged sites, which necessitates the complete removal of all packaging materials.
- Clay content: Soils with high clay percentages lack the oxygen required for the microbial activity that breaks down organic fibers.
- Saturation levels: Constant moisture creates an anaerobic environment that stalls the biological decay process, keeping the burlap intact for years.
- Soil pH: Highly acidic or alkaline conditions can alter the rate of decomposition, often slowing the breakdown of treated natural fibers.
- Temperature: Cold soil temperatures during the winter months effectively pause the microbial work needed to degrade the burlap material.
Common mistakes
- Leaving the twine tight. Leaving the burlap tied tightly around the trunk creates a girdling risk that can kill a tree in 5 to 10 years.
- Burying the root flare. Planting too deep because the burlap makes the ball look larger leads to root rot; always find the flare first.
- Ignoring synthetic materials. Assuming all burlap is biodegradable leads to long-term root restriction when plastic fibers fail to break down.
How do modern nursery standards regarding root ball packaging influence post-planting care requirements?
Modern nursery standards have shifted toward using lighter, more permeable materials, yet these changes still require careful inspection during installation. While many growers now use thinner, biodegradable fabrics that break down faster, the fundamental requirement to expose the root flare remains unchanged. You should treat every tree as if it requires a full inspection, regardless of the nursery's claims regarding the material's decomposition rate. This approach minimizes the risk of long-term structural issues that often go unnoticed until the tree begins to show signs of decline.
One notable exception is when dealing with very large, field-grown specimens that require heavy wire baskets for structural integrity during transport. In these cases, you must remove the top two rings of the wire basket to prevent future girdling, even if the burlap itself is thin. Always prioritize the long-term health of the root system over the convenience of leaving packaging materials in the ground.
Managing Root Ball Packaging
Focus on clearing the top third of the root ball to allow for proper oxygen exchange and root expansion. If you encounter synthetic burlap or heavy plastic ties, remove those materials entirely to prevent future structural issues.